Austrian Winemakers

Austria is emerging as a leader in the natural wine movement, attracting global interest with its distinct wines that marry ancient traditions with a minimalist, eco-friendly approach. This Alpine country is blessed with unique terroirs, sustainable farming methods, and winemakers who are deeply committed to the art of pure winemaking. Here’s a look at the thriving world of Austrian natural wine and why it’s quickly becoming a favorite among natural wine enthusiasts.

Why Austrian Wines Stand Out in the Natural Wine Scene

Austria has long had a reputation for its quality wines, particularly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. But in recent years, Austrian winemakers have taken their craft further, embracing natural wine’s “no-intervention” philosophy. The majority of Austrian vineyards are family-owned, and many of these winemakers practice organic or biodynamic farming. In Austria, winemaking is often more than a business — it’s a legacy, a way of life, and a responsibility to the land.

One key reason Austrian natural wines stand out is the country’s terroir. Austria’s varied landscape includes cool-climate mountain regions, rich valleys, and riverbeds, with soils ranging from clay and limestone to volcanic rock. This diversity of soils and climates allows winemakers to produce a range of wines, from crisp whites to structured reds, each expressing its origin with authenticity and nuance.

Key Regions for Natural Wine in Austria

Austria’s wine regions may be small, but they are highly varied and produce some unique expressions. Here are some of the most influential areas for natural wine in Austria:

1. Burgenland

• Known as the heartland of Austrian natural wine, Burgenland lies along the Hungarian border, benefiting from warm days and cool nights that ripen grapes beautifully. Winemakers here focus on bold, complex wines, including reds from Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and St. Laurent.
• Natural Wine Styles: Burgenland is known for orange wines, unfiltered whites, and earthy, minimal-intervention reds that showcase the unique climate and mineral-rich soil of the region.

2. Niederösterreich (Lower Austria)

• Niederösterreich is Austria’s largest wine-growing area, home to many famous subregions like the Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal, where Grüner Veltliner and Riesling thrive. The cool climate and rocky soils contribute to wines with high acidity and minerality.
• Natural Wine Styles: This region is especially noted for its skin-contact wines and mineral-driven whites. Natural winemakers here are known for producing crisp, aromatic whites that still retain a hint of the wildness found in natural wines.

3. Styria (Steiermark)

• Styria, located in the south of Austria, is known for its steep vineyards and cooler climate, producing refreshing wines with high acidity. The region is famous for Sauvignon Blanc, but natural winemakers here are experimenting with Chardonnay (locally called Morillon) and even some sparkling wines.
• Natural Wine Styles: The wines here are often bright, fresh, and slightly herbaceous, showcasing the influence of the Alpine climate. Look for natural Sauvignon Blancs with a unique twist, as well as elegant orange wines.

4. Vienna (Wien)

• Vienna is one of the few capital cities in the world with a thriving wine-growing region within city limits. The tradition of Gemischter Satz, or field blends, is especially popular here, where multiple grape varieties are grown and harvested together to create a singular, layered wine.
• Natural Wine Styles: Vienna’s Gemischter Satz wines offer a taste of old-world tradition with a natural twist, often unfiltered and featuring multiple grape varieties that reflect the diversity of the vineyard.

Iconic Grapes in Austrian Natural Wine

Austrian natural wines highlight some classic local grape varieties, giving wine enthusiasts a chance to experience these traditional flavors in their purest form.

• Grüner Veltliner: Austria’s flagship white grape produces wines that are fresh, peppery, and citrusy. In natural form, Grüner Veltliner can take on a slightly funky edge, with added minerality and texture.
• Riesling: Known for its high acidity and ability to express terroir, Riesling is one of Austria’s standout grapes, especially in Lower Austria. Austrian natural Rieslings are often unfiltered, which enhances their aromatic complexity and texture.
• Blaufränkisch: This red grape thrives in Burgenland, producing wines with dark berry flavors, spice, and structure. Natural Blaufränkisch is often bold yet nuanced, expressing earthy tones and the mineral-rich soil of the region.
• Zweigelt: A cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, Zweigelt is one of Austria’s most popular red grapes. Natural Zweigelts tend to be lighter, juicy, and easy-drinking, with flavors of red berries and subtle earthiness.
• Gemischter Satz: This traditional Viennese blend of several grape varieties grown together in one vineyard is a unique Austrian specialty, offering a natural expression of the vineyard’s diversity.

What to Expect from Austrian Natural Wine

One of the defining characteristics of Austrian natural wines is their authenticity. These wines often exhibit vibrant acidity, pronounced minerality, and a certain wildness that reflects the raw nature of natural winemaking. Here are some flavor profiles you might encounter:

• Funky Orange Wines: Skin-contact wines made from Grüner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc are increasingly popular. These wines tend to be amber-colored with complex flavors of stone fruit, herbs, and a hint of earthiness. Expect a bit of tannin structure and a slightly rustic edge.
• High-Acidity Whites: Austria’s cool climate gives natural whites a mouth-watering acidity that pairs well with food. Unfiltered Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners from Lower Austria often have layers of minerality, fresh citrus, and green apple, with a slight cloudiness that hints at their unprocessed nature.
• Elegant, Earthy Reds: Natural Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt from Burgenland are well-loved for their juicy berry flavors, subtle spice, and earthy undertones. These reds are often light-bodied and bright, making them versatile with food.
• Field Blends (Gemischter Satz): These wines reflect an old Viennese tradition that’s gaining new life in the natural wine movement. Expect a blend of flavors — floral, fruity, and herbal — with a naturally balanced complexity.

Austrian Winemakers Leading the Natural Wine Movement

Austria is home to many innovative natural winemakers who are reshaping the wine scene with their commitment to low-intervention practices. Here are a few names to look out for:

• Gut Oggau (Burgenland): Known for its beautifully expressive wines and whimsical labels, Gut Oggau uses biodynamic methods to create a range of reds, whites, and rosés that capture the spirit of Burgenland.
• Claus Preisinger (Burgenland): Another standout from Burgenland, Preisinger produces natural wines that focus on Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir, with a focus on sustainability and transparency.
• Christian Tschida (Burgenland): Known for his “hands-off” approach, Tschida’s wines are complex, soulful, and distinctly natural, often highlighting unique qualities of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Franc.
• Weingut Wieninger (Vienna): This Viennese winery is celebrated for its natural Gemischter Satz wines, paying homage to Vienna’s long-standing tradition of field blends.

Why Try Austrian Natural Wine?

If you’re curious about natural wine, Austria is a great place to start. Austrian natural wines are known for their elegance and balance, often bringing a unique twist to traditional styles. Their bright acidity and food-friendly profiles make them versatile choices for pairing with everything from seafood to hearty dishes. Plus, by supporting Austrian natural wines, you’re also supporting sustainable farming practices and a winemaking culture that values tradition and respect for the land.

The Bottom Line

Austria’s natural wine scene is one of the most exciting in the world, offering a variety of wines that range from funky and complex to crisp and refreshing. Whether you’re a seasoned wine lover or new to natural wine, Austria’s vibrant wines promise a tasting experience as authentic as the land they come from. From mineral-driven whites to rustic reds, Austrian natural wine offers a deep connection to the earth, the climate, and the artistry of winemaking. Cheers!

 

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